How Hard Is It to Run Smurf Tube Finished Wall
- #3
you simply pull gently on a line coming out where you want the power to get to & attach the power lead to it & pull very gently
...and also feed in a new replacement nylon pull-line along with the wires so there's one still there for the next time...
--dick
- #4
...and also feed in a new replacement nylon pull-line along with the wires so there's one still there for the next time...
--dick
and remember to pull in a replacement fish, or pull line with any added future wire(s) as you pull the old pull-line out. Easy to forget in the heat of battle. 
vic
- #6
_ Any other advice is very much appreciated!
Justin
How about not using any conduit? My conversion uses two and three wire "SO" rubber cords. No conduit and much more flexible and no pulling wires. Worked great. With a little thought you do not need to bury wiring in the walls. I replaced the stock plastic wireway on the upper drivers side wall with a Panduit 1 1/2" square wireway that holds the original Sprinter wiring and some of my additional cords. The rest of the cords are in the composite floor or behind seats or cabinets. I only ended up with two smurf tubes buried in the walls or ceiling. One is in the ceiling from a hole in the roof for the solar panel wires and the other is in the wall at the right rear to get 12 volts up to the right overhead cabinet. If I had been alert, the right rear conduit could have been eliminated by running the cord in the box above the rear doors. So think about not using smurf tubes and pulling wires. Look at some of my "orton DIY" posts to see what I am talking about.
- #9
Mine is also used for utility and camping. The cords worked great. Much simpler to install and far more flexable than smurf tubes. I used about 100' feet of both 12/2 for DC and 14/3 for AC. Ran 12/2 to small terminal blocks for the LED lighting and then 16/2 from the terminal blocks to the lights. Each LED light has its own switch. All DC has two wires since I did not ground the DC to the chassis. I also have a 1 1/2" thick composite floor which allowed me to run wiring in the floor. I do not have any exposed cords. They are in the floor or ceiling or behind cabinets. I certainly would use the same method if I build another conversion. Easy to make changes since they are almost all accessable.
I started using cords for the electrical on the packaging machines that I designed. They were much easier to install than conduit and pulling wires. So when it came time for the Sprinter I just used the same method.
I am also planning on attending the Sprinterfest this year so if you attend you can have a look at the installation.
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How Hard Is It to Run Smurf Tube Finished Wall
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